The Contrasts of the South Coast

WRITTEN BY TONY DAWE
8th July 2006

The west coast is the haunt of celebrities and the well-off, the east coast is wild and spectacular but the south coast of Barbados is where most British visitors stay.

Between the rebuilt Hilton Hotel at Needham's Point in the west and The Crane Resort in the east, lie a succession of smaller hotels and apartment blocks, supported by numerous bars, restaurants and modest shopping malls and many fronted by white sand beaches.

Amid the bustle and the concrete are unexpected havens of beauty and peace. The entire coast is full of contrasts that reflect the history of the island and its modern existence as a tourist destination.

At Haggatt hall, on the ring road around Bridgetown, a slave escaping from his chains is the most dramatic of the many roundabout sculptures. Bridgetown owes its importance to the sheltered waters of Carlisle Bay to the south but British shops in the bar needed protection from Dutch, and then French attack, so gun batteries were erected on the shore and Charles Fort built at Needham's point.

Substantial remains of the fort can be found in the lush gardens of the Hilton and 18th century cannon stand on the outer wall. They no longer roar but the sound they used to make is often matched on weekend evenings by the noise from The Boatyard and Harbour Lights nightclubs on the other side of the bay.

Although Britain first claimed the island in 1627, it was not until 1780, during wars with France, that a British prison was established on the island. Elegant barracks, built mostly of brick brought from England, were erected around the Savannah, a large field just uphill from Needham’s Point.

Infantry perfected their drill and cavalry exercised their mounts on the field. Today horses are the main reasons hundreds of Barbadians visit the Garrison Savannah because it is home to the island’s main racecourse.

The military buildings have survived and form the islands museum quarter, with the prison serving as the Barbados museum. Bush Hill House where George Washington stayed in 1751 on his only trip outside North America is being restored to its original state and will tell the story of the island in the 18th century.

The British influence is evident as you head east along the coast road through Hastings and Worthing. Between them, the gardens and bandstand at Rockley Beach are reminiscent of the smartest English promenade.

This is tourist territory and becomes increasingly lively as you reach St Lawrence Gap, a lane beside the sea. Waterside dining is possible at Pisces with scores of tables and an international menu, at Bellinis, a traditional Italian, and at David’s place, which claims to offer “the best Barbadian dining experience”.

A little farther along the “gap”, Harlequin, with tables above the road, is inviting and family-friendly, The Ship Inn offers steak and kidney pie and karaoke, a frenzy party and discos on different nights, but the Jam Rock Café is the place for the action.

It is easy to spend £30 per head in the beachside restaurants, but for a lot less, you can have an unexpected experience at Kentucky Fried Chicken at Hastings. Behind the familiar façade and uninspiring canteen is a line of concrete chairs and tables, shaded by casuarina trees, above a sandy beach washed by calm waves. Are these the best take away tables in the world?

The most surprising find on the busy south coast, however, is the Graeme Hall Nature Sanctuary, a stones throw from the road, just after Trimart and opposite the Guang Dong Chinese restaurant. This oasis contains the largest expanse of inland water in Barbados and is the last significant mangrove and sedge swamp on the island.

Boardwalks lead you beside the water to catch a glimpse of tarpon fish, sandpipers and the colonies of egrets – or you can just sit at shaded tables above a grassy bank and look out over the peaceful scene.

The visit becomes a little noisier when you enter the aviaries, with their mynah birds, toucans and parrots, though the scarlet ibis and pink flamingos are usually better behaved.

A couple of miles east, it is all action again at Oistins. This village has the liveliest fish market every morning except Sundays, with the fishermen trying to get the best prices for tuna, snapper, kingfish and flying fish while the women furiously fillet small fish and cut larger ones into steaks.

On Friday nights, Oistins stages a street party, the Fish Fry, with stalls offering grilled marlin or barracuda, potatoes and salad or flying fish with macaroni pie, rice and salad, washed down with a Banks beer. It starts at 8pm with the playing of the Barbados national anthem from a sound system in the main square that belts out louder and louder music as the night progresses.

Rival music playing in a bar 100m away draws eager dancers although many are happy to gyrate on the tarmac outside, while some visitors retreat to tables behind the stalls overlooking the sea.

At Oistins the main road leaves the coast and heads inland, although smaller lanes reach the South Point Lighthouse and Silver Sands, which lives up to its name, being popular with windsurfers and frequented by budget tour operators.

The coast behind the international airport is uninteresting, alternatively rocky and swampy, difficult to reach but becomes more dramatic beyond the airport. Foul Bar, backed by cliffs and woodland, is spectacular but has few facilities so visitors would need to take food and drink. Crane Beach, voted one of the ten best beaches in the world by Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous, likes in front of The Crane Resort, opened in 1887 as the first resort hotel on Barbados but now very 21st century with suites overlooking the sea and timeshare apartments.